Amy Higdon on Costume Symbolism in ‘Fancy Dance’

In “Fancy Dance,” a poignant feature film now streaming on Apple TV+, costume designer Amy Higdon masterfully uses clothing and regalia to weave a rich tapestry of personal and cultural narratives. The film, directed by Erica Tremblay and co-written with Miciana Alise, delves into the emotional journey of Jax, played by Lily Gladstone, who is grappling with the disappearance of her sister, Tawi, while caring for her niece, Roki. Higdon’s costumes are not merely visual elements; they are deeply intertwined with the film’s themes and character development.

The film opens with Roki, portrayed by Isabel Deroy-Olson, wearing a wolf-themed t-shirt that immediately catches the eye. Higdon reveals that this shirt, sourced from a thrift store in Tulsa, was a significant find. “We began by scouring thrift stores in Tulsa,” Higdon explained. “All my costumers were Indigenous women, and I asked them to bring back items that resonated with the characters’ personalities and histories. When I saw that wolf t-shirt, it struck me as something that Jax would own. However, it ended up on Roki, symbolizing her connection to Jax and, by extension, to her missing mother. The shirt becomes a visual metaphor for their relationship, reinforcing the theme of familial bonds.”

The film’s costume design extends beyond individual pieces to encompass the broader narrative of shared heritage and identity. The costumes are designed to reflect the characters’ histories and the collective memory of their community. Higdon described the process: “We aimed to capture the essence of clothes that have been passed down or accumulated over time within the family. This idea is vividly represented when Roki finds and wears a purple fringed jacket, which is implied to be crafted by her missing mother. This jacket, described in the script as part of Tawi’s stripper regalia, becomes a significant artifact in Roki’s life, symbolizing both her connection to her mother and her own journey.”

The film is not just a story about the search for a missing person but also an exploration of the complex dynamics within the characters’ lives. The purple jacket, which becomes a central symbol throughout the film, embodies multiple layers of meaning. “The jacket, with its long, shiny fringe, was originally written as a piece of Tawi’s performance attire,” Higdon noted. “In the context of the film, it transforms from a costume piece into a meaningful item that signifies Tawi’s presence in Roki’s life. It’s designed to be versatile, representing both the intimate, personal connection between mother and daughter and the broader cultural context of the characters.”

Higdon also highlighted the importance of Jax’s androgynous style, which serves as a key element of her character’s identity. “Jax’s wardrobe was intentionally designed to reflect her queerness,” Higdon said. “Her androgynous look is a form of self-expression and a way to communicate her identity. It also serves a narrative purpose by highlighting her role as both a caretaker and a link to her father. By presenting Jax as androgynous, the film addresses themes of identity and acceptance, while also challenging traditional gender roles within the story.”

The film’s portrayal of clothing as a means of maintaining connections is further emphasized through the constant presence of the purple jacket. “The jacket doesn’t change over the course of the movie, but its significance evolves,” Higdon explained. “It becomes a stand-in for Tawi’s presence, offering Roki a sense of comfort and continuity in a time of upheaval. The script describes it as ‘a hug from her mother,’ reinforcing the idea that clothing can carry emotional weight and serve as a tangible link to loved ones who are no longer present.”

The production of “Fancy Dance” faced unique challenges due to the COVID-19 pandemic, which made it impossible to attend existing powwows for authentic representation. Instead, the filmmakers relied on the support of the Native film community in Oklahoma. Higdon praised their involvement: “The Native community’s response was extraordinary. They stepped up to help create a powwow scene, providing not only their knowledge but also their regalia. This level of community support and pride was crucial in achieving authenticity in the film.”

The attention to detail in the film’s regalia is a testament to the collaborative effort of the Native film community. “Regalia is deeply personal, often handmade for loved ones,” Higdon said. “We couldn’t have accurately portrayed powwow regalia without the contributions from community members. Holly Gray, who played Tawi, provided her own regalia, including some purple pieces that resonated with the film’s themes of maternal and intergenerational love. The synchronicity of having the right regalia, especially in the color purple, added a layer of authenticity and emotional resonance to the film.”

Through its meticulous costume design and the meaningful use of clothing, “Fancy Dance” transcends the typical narrative of a missing person’s story. It becomes a profound exploration of identity, family, and cultural heritage, underscoring the idea that clothing can serve as a powerful symbol of connection and remembrance.