Sam Watson Sets Speed Climbing Record at Paris 2024

American teenager Sam Watson made headlines on Tuesday by setting a new world record in the sport climbing event at the Olympics. This relatively new Olympic discipline features climbers racing side-by-side up a 15-meter wall to determine who can reach the top the fastest.

Sport climbing, which made its Olympic debut at the Tokyo 2020 Games, includes three distinct disciplines: bouldering, lead climbing, and speed climbing. The bouldering discipline involves climbing short, technical routes without a rope, while lead climbing requires athletes to clip a rope to protection points as they ascend. Speed climbing, the newest addition, emphasizes rapid ascent with minimal technical complications.

At the Tokyo Games, sport climbing was a combined event, merging all three disciplines into a single competition. This format drew criticism from athletes who argued that it failed to adequately showcase their specific skills and led to an uneven playing field. They claimed that combining the diverse disciplines into one event created a “circus” atmosphere that did not reflect the true nature of their expertise.

For the Paris 2024 Games, the sport climbing competition has been restructured to address these concerns. The event is now divided into two separate medal opportunities: one for a combined bouldering and lead climbing event and another for speed climbing. This new format aims to better highlight the unique skills required for each discipline.

In speed climbing, athletes compete head-to-head to ascend a 15-meter wall as quickly as possible. Competitors are eliminated in each round based on their performance, with the fastest climber advancing until a final winner is determined. This format brings a straightforward, high-paced element to the sport, emphasizing sheer speed over technical prowess.

The revised format for Paris has been welcomed by many in the climbing community. French climber Oriane Bertone, who excels in bouldering and lead climbing, noted the distinct differences between the events. “The two events are completely different, and fans will notice that just by looking at the climber’s body type,” Bertone explained to the Paris 2024 committee. “They have very different styles.”

In Tuesday’s competition, Watson, an 18-year-old from Texas, set a new world record for speed climbing with a remarkable time of 4.75 seconds during the qualifying rounds. This achievement surpassed his record of 4.79 seconds, which he had set earlier this year at a World Cup event in China. Notably, Watson’s record was briefly matched by Veddriq Leonardo of Indonesia before Watson reclaimed the top spot. Watson is scheduled to compete against New Zealand’s Julian David in the quarterfinals of the men’s speed climbing event on Thursday.

Watson’s extraordinary performance not only secured him the world record but also earned him the title of the fastest time ever recorded in a timed Olympic sport, according to CNN.

As the Games progress, fans can look forward to the final rounds of the women’s speed sport climbing competition, set to take place at 6:54 a.m. EDT on Wednesday. The men’s finals are scheduled for the same time on Thursday. With the new format and Watson’s record-breaking achievements, the sport climbing events in Paris promise to be a thrilling showcase of athleticism and skill.